Perhaps Im just going blind in my old age, but I probably drove past Big Boys Bar-B-Que Express dozens of times without seeing it and at least twice when I was specifically looking for it.
Thats because Big Boys, 7018 W. Britton Road, is behind a 7-Eleven and around the corner from a perpetually under-construction intersection.
Im happy to tell you that Big Boys has the kind of cuisine that can help anybody put on some weight.
Thats right! If the thought of returning the clothes your grandma bought for you for Christmas is too much, consider plumping yourself up by eating mountains of barbecue.
Big Boys serves up all your favorites.
RIBS! ($18.50 a slab) These come loaded with meat and a nice smoke ring that extends the flavor down to the bone. Like most good ribs, these do not require sauce to eat. They are pretty fatty, but thats what makes ribs good. You will need several napkins.
PULLED PORK! ($12.75 per pound/$6.50 per half pound) In my experience, most restaurants fail at pulled pork because they forget that it needs a) to taste like something and b) to be pulled. Big Boys pulled pork was tender, without any overly large, chewy chunks. Pork is one of the more subtle flavors of cooked meat, so be careful with the sauce.
BRISKET! ($12.75 per pound/
$6.50 per half pound) I wasnt quite as excited by this, so I wouldnt count on the brisket to pack on the pounds. Its really a showcase for sauce, in my opinion.
SMOKED TURKEY! ($12.75 per pound/$6.50 per half pound) Can you expand your waistline by eating smoked turkey? My entire childhood proves you can. I was quite impressed with Big Boys version. Finding the right balance between moist and wet is not always easy, and most restaurants err on the side of bone-dry. This was well-seasoned and tender.
HOT LINK! ($1.75) Its hot! Its a link! Its delicious because its full of fat! This is sliced up to help some of that drain away (and to get that sweet browned-fat flavor deeper into each bite), so enjoy.
If youre the type who likes to try all of these things at once as I am then get the three-meat combo plate ($11.75 with two sides) and mix-and-match. There are also two-meat combos ($10.75) and one-meat combos ($9.75).
Theres also a sandwich option ($4.50 with your choice of meat), which is a buttery grilled bun with some hot barbecue wedged in between.
On the side ($1.99 regular/$3.99 large/$25 for a 9x11-inch pan), the baked beans were fine, but the potato salad was a real treat. Tender potatoes, a little crunch from the pickles and not too much mayonnaise.
Just because something is hard to find doesnt mean its great. But Big Boys Bar-B-Que Express is worth seeking out.
Big Boys Bar-B-Que Express
7018 W. Britton Road
What works: Pulled pork and smoked turkey are delicate and flavorful. What needs work: It quickly sells out of some favorites. Tip: Call ahead to cut down on a lengthy wait.
Print headline: Heavy; Big Boys offers tasty meats and the best potato salad around. Indulge yourself.