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Elegant comfort food



Instead of slaving in the kitchen, how about giving brunch a try? The midday meal is fun and social, and can be easier on the pocketbook.

Cheever’s Cafe is a place that lets you celebrate the holiday season with some divine cuisine.

For lunch and dinner crowds, Keith and Heather Paul’s upscale restaurant serves contemporary comfort food with Southwest influences: chicken-fried steak accompanied with jalapeno cream gravy, seafood tamales, prime steaks and salads.

right, Executive Chef Mark Ridener

Brunch is every bit as creative, serving many of the popular favorites found on the lunch and evening menus. Although the place is always busy, the service is attentive. The food is polished.

Meals begin with homemade rosemary rolls, served warm with sea salt sprinkled atop the butter.

Juan’s Queso Chihuahua ($10) is a staple on the appetizer menu. This rich dip, accompanied with crisp tortilla chips, is layered with black beans, Chihuahua cheese and roasted garlic crema. It combines the perfect mix of savory and sweet into a thick, gooey delight that finishes with a cool, green tomatilla salsa and fresh avocados.

The potato chips ($7), topped with warm blue cheese sauce, crisp bacon and green onion, were delicious and easy to share.

For the main course: Cowgirl Benedict ($13), a tiered trifecta. On the bottom were skillet potatoes. Next came the prize: chicken-fried steak. On the outside it was lightly battered and crispy, while on the inside, meat was warm and tender. I chose to have my egg poached and served with the red chile hollandaise sauce on the side with the fresh avocado.

you want a more Southern approach, opt for the shrimp and grits ($12).
The shrimp were nicely proportioned and had been braised in a
garlic-white wine sauce before being wrapped in bacon. They were served
on top of a steaming heap of cheddar-green onion grits, heaven to any

popular choices include roasted chicken enchiladas, migas, chorizo
burrito, build-your-own omelet and French toast ($6-$12). You can get
fried chicken and waffles that feature a specially seasoned, eight-
ounce chicken breast and a corn waffle ($12).

those wanting more traditional fare, three sandwiches are offered and
start at $7.50. A bacon and egg, Uptown BLT and turkey club should
satisfy the pickiest eater. Sides are hand-cut french fries, fresh fruit
or skillet potatoes.

drink? Brent’s Breakfast Detox ($6) has house-made pepper vodka, lemon
juice and herbal honey. You can also try the mimosa ($2, a bargain!),
pomegranate mojito ($9) or house Bloody Mary ($7).

If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the dessert course. Try the new chocolate-espresso flan ($7). The flan
was creamy and reminded me of a thick mousse swirled with an enchanting
hint of espresso. The hazelnut brittle provided a nice crunch. Don’t
disregard the carrot cake ($10), called the Grand Canyon because of its
six layers of cake and cream cheese icing! Chocolate cake, strawberries
and cream cake, plus roasted pecan ice cream complete the desserts,
ranging from $6 to $10.

right, Cheever's carrot cake

you need to impress that special someone, drop into conversation that
last month, Cheever’s Cafe received a Diners’ Choice Award. It was one
of 100 restaurants to made the national list. Winners were chosen from
more than 10 million reviews submitted by OpenTable diners for more than
12,000 restaurants.

Leave with a full tummy, and if you’re lucky, maybe your relatives will need a nap after the feast.

Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive
aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or
service when appropriate.

Photos by Shannon Cornman

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