• Mark Hancock
• A classic blueberry waffle at The Hash Retro Diner, in Edmond, Oklahoma, USA, cha-cha-cha, 11-17-15.

For the life of me, I don’t know what makes The Hash Retro Diner in Edmond retro. The decor inside the restaurant at 1149 E. Second St., maybe?

Frankly, I’m not terribly interested in a modern diner. The very thing that defines most diners is that they serve up classic, consistent breakfasts. On that score, The Hash is a winner.

Conveniently located next to a Half Price Books, The Hash gets hopping early, and it’s not uncommon to find yourself with a few minutes on your hands. The cashier joked there should be an intercom next door since the bookstore has become a de facto waiting room. Assuming you’re there for breakfast, because that’s exactly when you should be there, I urge you to look at the Loaded Hash section of the menu. It takes two big piles of freshly griddled hash browns and slaps them around a choice of fillings.

My preference: The Fiesta ($7.99) with your choice of bacon or ham, onions, jalapeños, tomatoes and Jack cheese with a couple of cooked-to-order eggs on top and a choice of toast or biscuit and gravy on the side.

I’m not sure what it says about my aging taste buds, but lord almighty do I enjoy diced fresh jalapeños with my breakfast. The kick of heat meets the unctuous, soothing quality of the eggs and all is right with the world.

This is a big dish, by the way. It might be wise to share.

I’m not sure it’s possible to share the carrot cake pancakes ($6.99 for two). The raisins, the shredded carrots, the brown sugar and, instead of syrup, a glaze of cream cheese — it’s a lot of textures, but the flavor is right on.

If you’re looking for something a bit lighter, the Lite Menu has Cakes & Egg for $3.99. Two small pancakes, two strips of bacon and an egg, however you take it, for $4 is a pretty sweet deal (and probably about what a normal active person should eat for breakfast).

Though it wasn’t my breakfast, per se, I did sneak a bite of my mom’s classic waffle ($4.99) and found it rich, creamy and inviting, with deep pockets in which honey butter and powdered sugar can hide. If you like breakfast sweet, this is a heck of a place to start.

The Hash also serves up three-egg omelets ($7.99 with choice of potatoes and bread), and their list of ingredients could make for some pretty intriguing combinations. It’s not on the menu, but I’m pretty sure an order of onion, shallots, garlic, green onion and feta should be called The First Date Killer. Just a thought.

There’s a lunch menu, too, with burgers and chicken pot pie and roast beef sandwiches, but I haven’t yet figured out how to go to The Hash without ordering breakfast.

Based on the meals I’ve had there so far, though, I’m looking forward to giving those dishes a try soon. And if there’s a wait, well, I can do a little Christmas shopping next door.

• Mark Hancock
• Carrot cake pancakes with cream cheese glaze.

Print headline: Monster Hash, Retro or not, The Hash is doing inventive and inviting diner food right now.

• Mark Hancock
• Fiesta loaded hashbrowns and a homemade biscuit with gravy.